Hello all!

This morning I wanted to share our experiences with spay surgeries. Until recently, we only had the option of Traditional spay and although these have always gone well, with no complications. Recovery time has always been about 2 weeks limiting activity so they healed safely with no issues. 

When I asked about an appointment for a female last week, I was asked my preference on type of surgery, laparoscopic or traditional. I jumped at the chance to do laparoscopic! This was so exciting. And I wasn't disappointed either.

On Wednesday we arrived early in the morning for drop off, and spoke to the nurse about their surgery medications protocols. They happened to be using Acepromazine so we asked to change the protocols and they did. At 2:30pm we picked her up and she bounced out to us! That was a first! She came home and we checked her tummy. She has two very small incisions about 1/2' each, and they stated she would only need a couple days to recover. Wow! Once getting home we offered her a meal at supper time and she refused it. So in the morning we offered her another meal and this time she gobbled it up. She hasn't needed anything for pain medication wise, and has been bouncy since right after!

We couldn't be more pleased and Ellie went there today for her Lap Spay.

I've shared an article below that compares the two types of spay for your viewing. 

Enjoy!
Suzi & Marc

Traditional Spay
In a traditional spay, incision size actually varies. The wound on your dog does vary and that depends on what type of surgery your dog is undergoing. It depends on the size and body condition of your dog. 

If your dog is thin, they'll need a smaller incision. If they are fat and overweight, we will often need to make a larger incision because there is so much fat in the way. As a surgeon, I need to see what I’m doing and handle the tissue appropriately. 

REMOVING THE OVARIES AND UTERUS
The ovaries and uterus are then clamped off and suture material ligature is used to close off the blood supply so that we prevent any bleeding. We remove the likelihood of any bleeding before we make our cut to remove the ovaries and the uterus (is a full ovariohysterectomy is being performed).

Laparoscopic Spay Surgery

Let's compare this traditional technique to a laparoscopic spay. 

Laparoscopic surgery is known as minimally invasive, or keyhole surgery. It involves one to three small half-inch incisions being made into the body wall that then go into the abdomen. The exact technique is again going to depend on the technique and the preference of the veterinary surgeon.

Carbon dioxide is then used to inflate the abdomen. This helps separate all of the organs for visualization with a camera. The camera and the instruments are passed through those small incision ports, and the surgery is carried out without the surgeon’s hands entering the abdomen.


A screen is used by the surgeon to perform the surgery, the camera is connected to a television screen. Rather than suture material being used to block the blood vessels, electrocautery is used to seal them which prevents blooding once the ovaries are removed.

Benefits of a Laparoscopic Spay

1. Smaller incision(s)
2. Less painful
3. Fewer complications
4. Faster recovery

There are some clear benefits of a laparoscopic spay in dogs.



SMALLER INCISIONYour dog is going to have a smaller incision. It’s not called keyhole spay for nothing!
In a traditional spay, they have a three-inch incision compared to one-three much smaller incisions.
LESS PAINFULDogs have been shown to feel up to 65% less pain after laparoscopy than they would feel after traditional spay surgery. They will have a faster recovery because they are more comfortable.
LOWER COMPLICATION RATEThere is also a lower complication rate with laparoscopic spay compared to routine spay surgery. 
In one study, there was a complication rate of around 20% with laparoscopy. This compared to 40% of dogs suffering complications with a traditional spay. That being said, complications were mainly inflammation alone, which required no further treatment.
FASTER RECOVERY TIMEA smaller incision, less pain and lower chance of complications all add up to a dog recovering from their spay surgery faster if it performed laparoscopically.
A traditional spay requires a post-operative rest and recovery period of 10-14 days. With a laparoscopic spay, this is reduced to a rest period of only 5 days before normal activity levels can resume.


Laparoscopic Spay Drawbacks
What are the downsides of a laparoscopic spay compared to a traditional spay in dogs?

MORE EXPENSIVEFirst off, these surgeries are more expensive, and understandably so.
The training that needs to take place before this surgery can be performed is quite extensive. Most general practitioner veterinarians won't be familiar with laparoscopic equipment before they start performing laparoscopic spays and so the learning curve can be high.



Also, the equipment that we need for this advanced surgical technique is much more expensive than with a traditional spay. Traditional spay uses very simple hand instruments, but laparoscopic spays require a more complicated, expensive setup.
CONVERSION TO TRADITIONAL SPAYINGIf we do get a problem during surgery, your surgeon is going to need to convert to a traditional, open spay. You can't deal with any bleeding or other more serious complications with laparoscopic equipment alone.
You need to open up the abdomen traditionally, using your hands and instruments to find and then fix the problem.
UTERINE PATHOLOGYLaparoscopic spay cannot be carried out if there is a uterine infection or any other uterine pathology present. Remember that only the ovaries are removed in a keyhole spay.
If there is a cancer of the uterus, or any other problem, then a laparoscopic spay procedure is not going to be the best option for your dog. This is not likely to be a problem in a young dog, but if you have an older dog there is an argument that a traditional approach is going to be best, given the potential for an unknown problem with the uterus being found.


Spay Surgery Complications

• Inflammation
• Infection
• Vomiting + diarrhea
• Bleeding

I’ve already mentioned that the majority of surgical complications involve little more than a bit of inflammation that requires no further treatment. There are however several other potential complications you should be aware of.


INFECTION
Minor surgical site infections are not common but are the next most frequently experienced complication.


There is a slightly increased risk of infection in a traditional spay along with a slight delay in wound healing. In general though, very few of these infections need any major treatment apart from a course of antibiotics.


INTESTINAL UPSET
Other complications that are frequently seen, and are the same with both surgical techniques, are diarrhea and vomiting.
These are likely due to the anesthetic and the pain medication given, rather than the specific surgical technique performed. 
BLEEDING
This is the most severe complication risk. Spaying a dog involves cutting some really big blood vessels. If they have not been securely blocked the severe bleeding can happen, and this can even be life-threatening.
The risk is slightly higher with a traditional spay. If the suture material ligature is not tied tightly enough, or the knot is not tied securely, then it has the potential to slip. The result of this can be rapid blood loss into the abdomen,


With laparoscopic spay technique, electricity is used to effectively seal the blood vessel. There is no potential for slippage, and so long as the appropriate technique is used, and there is no equipment failure, the risk of bleeding is minimal.


Thankfully, this severe complication is very rare regardless of the technique used. It is a very uncommon risk with a traditional spay, but there is a slightly higher risk nonetheless.


LAPAROSCOPY IS (MARGINALLY) SAFER
Overall, there are benefits of a laparoscopic spay compared to a traditional spay in dogs when it comes to the risk of complications. But it's important to remember that safety is very high in both procedures.

The likelihood of side-effects varies just as much with surgeon experience as it does by the actual technique performed.

When Is Traditional Spay Better than Laparoscopic Spay

TOO OLD

While there is no upper age for keyhole spay set in stone, age does play a role when it comes to deciding which surgical technique is right for your dog.


The reason for this is that the older a dog is, the higher the likelihood that there are some abnormalities within the body of the uterus. Leaving these in the body could make it much more likely that your dog will suffer from a significant disease of their uterus later on in life. Remember that in a laparoscopic spay only the ovaries are removed.


One compromise, if you have your heart set on a keyhole spay, is to understand that your vet may need to convert to a traditional spay during your dog’s surgery. This will however also mean a longer anesthetic and procedure time for your dog.


Similarly, if your dog is known to have an existing disease of their uterus, for example pyometra, then it is a traditional ovariohysterectomy that they need.


Even though laparoscopic spay may not be the right option, there are still definite benefits of spaying an older dog.

TOO SMALL

Laparoscopy is more challenging in small dogs, and for those under about 12 pounds (5kg) it is likely that a traditional spay is going to be their best option.
The reason for this is that, not only will the incision be much the same size, there is simply not enough room in their tiny abdomen for all the laparoscopic spay equipment to fit!


There is smaller equipment available, but this will not be available to the majority of veterinarians.


TOO FAT

While a laparoscopic spay may actually be safer for the majority of dogs compared to a traditional surgical approach, for dogs that are truly obese, many surgeons will prefer an open approach to allow full visualization of the ovarian pedicle and blood vessels that need to be ligated.


For those dogs that fall into this category, a pre-surgical weight loss program is still going to be beneficial to reduce the surgery risk as well as improving long-term health.


And it is vital for all dogs that diet is adjusted to focus on healthy weight maintenance following surgery, with energy requirements falling by up to 25%.


Superior TechniqueA laparoscopic spay is the superior technique for the majority of female dogs.
That said, even with the standard, traditional approach, our dogs are still pretty comfortable and are back up and running very quickly after surgery. Especially considering how major the surgery is.

In fact, keeping your dog quiet after surgery might be your biggest challenge!


If laparoscopy is not available in your area, or if the cost is too high, then you should have no qualms at all about having your dog spayed traditionally. This is a technique that is performed in veterinary practice daily, and so a procedure that your veterinarian is going to be very comfortable performing.


Laparoscopy will become more common in time, but there will always be a place for the traditional approach.


SPAY TIMING​
Technique is only one important consideration when it comes to spaying a female dog. Spaying your dog at the right age is really important to optimize their future health and reduce the risk of long-term complications.

All info shared from: https://ourpetshealth.com/info/dog-laparoscopic-spay

A note about this article from us...

We have been breeding for many years. However, we are always learning and working towards breeding better. We always learn something new... every day.  If we ever feel we "know it all" or are "above learning", we need to stop and re-evaluate our lives on that day. 

We have evolved, especially over this last 8 years. We have learned that it takes a balance of everything, and working towards ALL goals to get the best we can produce. We have laid all cards on the table and each and every time we have bred we roll the dice, no matter how carefully we choose, or how good it all looks on paper. There are things we can predict and things we cannot.

​But, there are some things that we just never want to take chances on. When there are obvious things, like Tom has written about and we definitely agree. We pick from the best we can here, and we watch them grow to see if they are the desired selection for our breeding program when matured. A few do not make the cut, and that's ok. They'll still be a wonderful companion.

​Go read... It's awesome. After all, it was written by Tom Coen - Master Breeder/ Macdega Shelties.

Our progress over 12 years...

It is a matter of record that over the past 35 years we have housed many influential sires. Having an active stud force has allowed us the opportunity to live with and evaluate literally thousands of bitches. Since there is not a lot for a person to do while holding two dogs that are tied, I usually spend the time studying the bitch and evaluating the combination of the two individuals, wondering whether it will be history in the making or just another litter of puppies.
My advice to others over the years has always been to LOOK TO THE DAMS OF THE STUD DOGS. Tail male charts are interesting but they leave out a very important element of the story and that is the bitch. It is the bitch who provides the complement to the sire and determines the distinction among his offspring, both in quality and producing ability.
Breeding dogs is a creative process that combines the eye of the artist with the laws of nature. Also included must be a large measure of common sense. Breeding dogs is a process of building generation after generation, of constantly gaining in one area and losing in another. The breeder is like a juggler trying to keep the pins for correct type, stable temperament, and good health in the air at the same time. The bitch is the building block utilized in the process of creative breeding.
When selecting a foundation bitch or planning a breeding there is one principal that I have witnessed as law: WHAT YE SOW YE SHALL REAP. If you don’t want something to show up, don’t start with it or add it to the gene pool. Recessive problems will slip by through lack of information, but to knowingly add a serious problem to your program shows no common sense. You may try to close your eyes to something but Mother Nature will provide a wake up call at some point up the road.
Quirks of temperament, tendencies toward physical weakness, and reproductive problems are inherited as well as physical characteristics. We have certain lineal descendants who get panicky during thunderstorms. Another family group gets violently car sick as puppies. These behavioral idiosyncrasies continue generation after generation. Thirty-five years ago I had a bitch shipped in for breeding who possessed the most beautiful eye and skull that I had ever seen. She was unshown due to a crooked front leg that she had fractured during puppy hood. No problem, I thought, as I was interested in the genes for skull and eye. I acquired a daughter from the breeding and at four months of age she broke her front leg but went on to be a very influential producer. She would have had more champions herself but one of her best daughters broke her leg as a puppy – a statement on the inheritance of physical weaknesses.
Not all great show bitches are great brood bitches. We had a multiple Best in Show bitch that looked like she would be a tremendous producer as well. She had exceptional quality, substance and great attitude. We bred (her) several times and each time she whelped perfectly formed puppies that were still born. This was particularly frustrating since we could feel the puppies moving a few days before whelping, indicating they were dying just before or during the birthing process. Trying to outsmart Mother Nature, we had our vet take the puppies by cesarean section several days prior to her due date. The puppies were tiny and weak but through constant vigilance and tube feeding we did save one bitch puppy. She was bred and produced one beautiful daughter who finished easily and in style. When this bitch was bred, she whelped litters of perfectly formed still born puppies. This was our wake up call and the bitch was culled. Again, what ye sow ye shall reap. Keep in mind that the tendencies toward skin problems, thyroid problems and other defects are also inheritable.
When evaluating a bitch from a breeding standpoint there are several key areas to consider: health, temperament, physical quality (phenotype) and pedigree (genotype).
The ideal bitch should be an easy keeper and a good doer. A hearty appetite that keeps her in good flesh with no coaxing is of great importance. A bitch who won’t eat, especially when she has a new litter of puppies depending on her, is not well suited to motherhood and can make your life miserable. Avoid bitches from families who require medication and supplementation to maintain their condition and fertility. The goal is to produce good sized healthy litters to provide selection within a creative breeding program and to keep the process as natural as possible. We are living in a time when veterinary medicine has become quite sophisticated in the area of reproduction. Thyroid medication and hormone therapy make it possible for bitches who would not ordinarily come in season to do so and produce litters. There are tests to monitor silent or irregular seasons so that ovulation can be pinpointed and problem bitches can conceive and produce offspring. Although it is impressive that we can overcome Mother Nature and produce litters out of such bitches I question the benefit in the long run.
Ideally, the bitch should be as free a possible from hereditary defects. To be entirely genetically free of hereditary defects is not a possibility but it is in the area that common sense must be employed. Don’t breed bad eye checks, entropion, testicle problems, bad hips or other such problems unless you are willing to deal with more of the same. I repeat: WHAT YE SOW YE SHALL REAP.
The ideal bitch possesses a stable, sensible temperament with intelligence and trainability. These qualities of correct Breed Character, not only make good show dogs, but are what have drawn the pet buying public to the Sheltie for years. The bitch is the role model for the puppies and in the area of temperament accounts for more than her genetic fifty percent. There is no excuse or place in the breeding program for a shy, flighty or nervous Sheltie bitch.
When selecting for physical quality in a bitch, it is important to keep in mind which qualities are most difficult to achieve and maintain. While not every bitch can be a CH Larkspur of Pocono or a CH Riverhill Rare Gold, the purchase of a foundation bitch requires extensive study followed by careful thought and selection. This, by the way, is not the time to become frugal. Go for the very best bitch you can find as she can save you years of disappointment, frustration, and wasted time.
Head qualities are of great importance in the brood bitch. All will have some deficiencies but the degree of fault is what must be considered. It is extremely difficult to correct severe lack of skull, snipey muzzle, depth of head, lippiness and certain bite problems. While on the subject of bites, be wary of a narrow underjaw, missing premolars and inverted molars. The virtue of flat frontal bone, clean sides to the skull, tight lip line and roundness of muzzle will definitely increase your chances of producing exceptional quality. The greater the degree of virtue your bitch possesses the better are your chances of producing a great one.
It is almost impossible to radically change body type and structure through breeding in only a few generations. Therefore, it is necessary to select and maintain bitches who approach your mental picture of the ideal as described by the Standard. Correct body type is a matter of the proportion and angles of the skeletal structure. While abundant coat is a real plus in a breeding program and can enhance a good outline it is still only the icing on the cake. It is what is under the coat that is important, i.e., arch of neck, a strong back, well laid back shoulders, long stifle, good definition of the hock joint and sloping croup. These are the qualities that your ideal bitch would possess and these are the qualities that create the picture of correct Sheltie type, standing and in motion. It is these same qualities that make certain individuals stand out in the huge classes at the National. Since soundness and elegance are priorities in our program we continually select for the curvaceous and sweepy body lines with deeper angulation and more neck. Just as the head naturally reverts to commonness so does the body and outline.
Unless you have had first hand experience with dogs in a pedigree the document is of little more value than a list of names. With study a pedigree becomes a valuable tool for creating and predicting quality. No where on the pedigree does it tell which dogs were strong producers or which were producers of problems which still haunt us. The title of champion means very little when evaluating producing ability. It is our responsibility to study and research individuals and family lines and to choose the ones who “look” appeals to you and who shortcomings you can abide. The qualities that a bitch possesses should reflect the qualities of her ancestors. She should be the physical demonstration of the strength of her pedigree. Bitches who are the exception for a family rather than the rule cannot be counted on for predictability.
It is impossible to place a value on a bitch of extreme virtue and strength of a pedigree without taking into account breeder judgment. However, when utilized in a creative manner by an astute breeder, it would be fair to say her value is nothing less then the future of the breed."

Recently there was a rescue of 200 dogs from a breeder in the midwest. A criminal case is pending but we choose to remain neutral on this part of this topic. What we want to discuss is the dogs. 

When something like this happens, everyone wants to help. Everyone wants to show that pup/adult dog what love is all about. So many have hearts of gold, and if they cannot help by rescuing a dog, they help with much needed supplies and monies for care of these dogs. This is amazing and wonderful. 

Do you know what you can expect when you rescue a dog who has never been inside a home? Sometimes the conditions are so bad they have no clean place to lay. They are matted and in their fur are burrs, fecal matter, and urine. Many when you reach out to pet and love them shy away and cower at your hand or approach. Some withdraw into themselves and retreat to a corner afraid of touch or any contact. A few do not want to know you or look at you. And a few fall to the ground and cry like you've injured them if you touch them. Some will not walk no matter how you coax them and need to be carried outside to potty. How do I know these responses? 

These are the responses we have overcome in our experience with rescue in past years. Because of doing this a few times, we know this is not something we could do every day and our hats are off to those that do this time and again. They have very special hearts and souls indeed. When I deal with this, I cry and my heart is crushed. I feel pain for these dogs, and it's very personal to me. Therefore. I can only do this as needed once in a while. Those are my limits.